It's THAT Time Of Year Again...
(that should get the guys' attention)
I'm talking to those of you handymen (and yes, handywomen as well) out there today. If hearing that our very own source of natural gas (NIPSCO - NO...not City Hall...sorry) is raising rates AGAIN to the tune of 20 PERCENT doesn't shake you back into reality, better check your pulse...and your medical plan.

Yes friends, it's going to be getting COLDER, and if last night had those climate-challenged wimps reaching for the thermostat to get the furnace fired up, the rest of us know what we're going to be doing, namely winterizing our houses and our vehicles.

Today, I'm offering up some practicality around the house for getting ready to combat Old Man Winter.

Educational Alert:

You WILL Be Learning Something Here Today!

When it comes to winterizing, if you live in a fairly new house, it's not a big deal (usually), but if you're like me, and live in one of those wonderful post-war Cape Cods, you get into "the routine" with religious fervor, especially when budgetary constraints have to be adhered to with great care (no one ever said owning a house meant MORE money in one's pocket).

First off, EVERY house leaks air..it HAS to. And we're NOT talking about the types of air leaks incurred when a BULLET comes through the wall or when FOUR MEN force their way past the front door of a house at 1:30AM, letting all that cold air in...(that mainly applies to SOUTHsiders ONLY).
If a house were totally airtight (which would qualify it for a level III HAZMAT containment area), you would need some way to scrub and recycle the air constantly. So unless you're planning some orbital excursions by strapping your 1600+ square foot split-level to the space shuttle, I'd put away those charcoal canisters (and that jar of TANG).
What you DO need to do is figure out if the leakage is SEVERE enough (that would be like a missing window) to warrant some type of repair. Best way to check for leaks is a smoke test (incense works well and smells better than ciggies). And the repairs can be as small as doing some caulking around the windows, checking the door thresholds and sweeps, and even the exhaust fan in the bathroom (those spring-loaded flaps will eventually wear out).
A few cans of expansion foam works wonders in many hard-to-reach areas like where the central air line comes into the house, or around the dryer duct outside the house. Hell, you can use this stuff damn near anywhere, and you can trim the excess off easily enough. Be sure to not get this on your clothes or skin...it's a bugger to get off!

Next, you want to make sure the source of your heating, whether it's a gas-fired furnace, or electric baseboard, or even (in some older homes) the radiator system is in proper order.
Check the filters for the furnace and be sure to change them regularly (especially if you have pets, because they LOVE to shed their fur), to prevent inhibited air flow from the return vents and duct work. Dirty filters make the system work harder than it HAS to, and we ALL know what THAT feels like...don't we?
If you have to call a professional duct cleaner to the house, it'll be worth it, because you would not believe what can accumulate over the years IN those ducts.
Radiators should be purged to get the rust out, and electric baseboards have to be cleaned of any and all obstructions (dust will catch fire too).
Make sure the furnace circulating fan is working properly, and by that I mean if it has lubrication ports, place a few drops of the proper oil into them (most take the standard 30 weight oil - machine oil like 3-in-1 is a little on the light side). Check the pulleys and belts for wear and if the belt has developed cracks, change it out...it's just like a serpentine or fan belt on the car. Once it fails, the fan don't turn, and you get nothing...for free!

Oh, did I mention to always practice SAFETY when checking this stuff out? That should be your FIRST job...safety. Make sure the system if OFF whenever servicing it. Parkview hospital doesn't need the business THAT bad. When you swap an old air filter out, wear protective glasses, gloves and a "snowball" mask (it will be dusty), and you don't want to have that crap in your nose and throat. Bag the filter (you don't want more of that muck through the house...that's what you got the filter for in the first place, right?) and put it out with the trash, unless it's a washable filter, then hose it down outside.

As to insulation, if you've got a crawlspace, attic, or loft, make sure the insulation hasn't shifted around. If it's the blow-in kind, check for EVEN distribution, and add more if needed. If it's the roll type, again, check for even coverage and add another layer if needed. You can easily build UP the "R" factor to any space that way, thereby decreasing your utility bills. You can never have too many R's where insulation is concerned. If it's rated R-11, you can bounce that up to an R-20 or higher for relatively little money.

Again, wear protective gear like a mask/respirator, goggles/glasses, and long sleeve clothing, as the fiberglass will itch like hell.
This also applies to walls, only vertically instead of horizontally. Older homes have blown in insulation which over time, will settle and need to be "beefed-up", as it were. With plaster/lathe walls, this can cost a few bucks. Panelled walls are much easier, but one thing to remember about ANY insulation application: Be sure to have a good vapor-barrier (sheet plastic) under everything. That keeps moisture out of the area being insulated, and goes a long way to ensure lower bills and comfortability in the house.
Besides, who likes mold?

Lastly, a crash course in windows. More is always better, as in DOUBLE-PANE vs single pane. Wood is more expensive but does a darn good job maintaining temperatures. Vinyl is next, with aluminum a distant third. Insulated vinyl is as good as hard wood, but costs more typically. Yet with ANY window type or material, the better the SEAL (fit), the better (read lower) the utility bill. And if you're replacing windows, the old rule still applies: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. I like to measure about SEVEN times myself. The fewer "shim packs" used (to square and plumb a window frame), the better the fit and a tight window is much better than a "shimmed" window...any day, hot OR cold.
So there you go...Home Winterizing 101.
All the *411* you need to keep your cool while keeping warm this winter.

See? Blogs don't have to ALWAYS be about politics... Sometimes, they actually provide a service.

And you have to admit...the price IS right.